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Authentication Guide · Rolex · 1680, 5512, 5513

Spotting Fake Rolex Submariner 1680, 5512, 5513 Watches

Learn to identify counterfeit vintage Rolex Submariners. Detailed checks for references 1680, 5512, 5513.

Rolex Submariner (Vintage)
Photo: Good_Timing · by 2.0 · source
By Catch Fakes Authentication Desk4 min read

The Rolex Submariner is iconic, and its vintage models like the 1680, 5512, and 5513 are highly sought after by collectors. However, the demand for these classics has led to a proliferation of counterfeits. Getting fooled by a fake can be a costly mistake, both financially and in terms of collector prestige. The counterfeit market for these models is sophisticated, with replicas often mimicking the originals with alarming accuracy. This guide provides detailed authentication checks to help you discern the genuine from the fake.

Dial Printing and Markers

The vintage Submariner dials are a critical point of authentication. Genuine dials from the 1680, 5512, and 5513 references should have crisp and clear printing. The 'SWISS' or 'SWISS-T<25' markings at 6 o'clock are precise and evenly spaced. The lume plots should have a creamy patina due to tritium aging, not the stark white of modern lume. Check for any bubbling or uneven application, as these are signs of a redial.

The Cyclops Magnification

On the 1680 model, the date magnification should be 2.5x. Many fakes have incorrect magnification levels, often around 1.5x to 2x. The cyclops should be perfectly aligned over the date window, and any misalignment or distortion is a red flag.

Caseback Engravings

The casebacks of these vintage models are typically plain, with the exception of service casebacks which may have engravings. Inside, you should find the reference number and occasionally the Rolex coronet. Any external engravings or incorrect markings inside are indicative of a counterfeit.

Movement Calibres

The 1680 should house a Calibre 1575, while the 5512 and 5513 typically feature the Calibre 1530 or 1520. Inspect the movement for the correct engravings and decorations. Genuine Rolex movements are meticulously finished, with no rough edges or unfinished areas. Any discrepancy in movement calibre or poor finishing is a major red flag.

Bezel Insert and Material

The bezels on these models should have a matte finish with a slightly faded look due to age. The insert should be aluminium, not ceramic, and the font on the bezel should be sharp and consistent. Any glossy or overly new-looking bezels suggest a replacement or counterfeit part.

Bracelet End-Links and Clasp

Original bracelets for these references often have hollow end-links. Look for bracelet codes such as '9315' or '7206' stamped on the clasp. The Rolex coronet on the clasp should be sharply embossed. Loose or ill-fitting end-links are a common sign of a fake or mismatched bracelet.

Rehaut Engraving

Vintage Submariners typically do not have engraved rehauts, as this feature was introduced in later models. If you find any engraving on the rehaut, it is likely a fake or a modified piece.

Lume Colour and Ageing

The lume on vintage Submariners should show signs of ageing, typically a creamy or yellowish patina. Bright or greenish lume is a sign of recent application or replacement. The ageing should be consistent across the dial and hands.

Red Flags at a Glance

  • Misaligned cyclops magnification
  • Incorrect movement calibre
  • Glossy bezel insert
  • Engraved rehaut
  • Bright white lume
  • External caseback engravings
  • Loose bracelet end-links
  • Stark white dial markers

FAQ

What movement should a vintage Rolex Submariner have?

The 1680 should have a Calibre 1575, while the 5512 and 5513 typically use Calibre 1530 or 1520.

How can I tell if the bezel insert is original?

Original bezels are aluminium with a matte finish. Sharp, consistent font and signs of age are key indicators.

What should I look for in the bracelet and clasp?

Check for codes like '9315' or '7206' on the clasp, and ensure the Rolex coronet is sharply embossed.

Final Word

Authenticating a vintage Rolex Submariner requires careful attention to detail. While this guide provides comprehensive checks, it's always wise to seek a second opinion from a professional watchmaker or a Rolex expert. Their experience can provide additional assurance and help you make a confident purchase.


Want a second opinion in seconds? Watch Authenticator scans a photo and runs the same checks — dial, crown, rehaut, caseback, movement — flagging anything off. Try it →